At last the bus 78 to Seatoller was running after the road flooding had subsided! I could visit the woods at the south of the Borrowdale Rainforest NNR that I had intended to visit on 03.10.25
Getting off at Seatoller, I decided to visit some of southernmost woods of the NNR: High Stile and Low Stile Woods; named as “Seatoller Wood” on the Natural England map of ancient woodland, . When I got to these woods they were fenced off with “private” signs, despite them being marked as public access land on the OS map. As I said in my post of 03.11.25, I had had to do lots of research to find where the constituent parts of the NNR are. The National Trust website on the NNR doesn’t have a map of the NNR, and there is no Natural England visitors’ guide, as there is for other NNRs. There is also no information on which parts of the NNR have public access and which don’t. The only way to find out whether or not there is no public access is to visit the woods and find out for yourself, when you have found out where the constituent woods in the Borrowdale Rainforest NNR are.
The only way I found out where the constituent woods of the NNR were, was by looking at the declaration of NNR map on the government’s website. I then had to cross reference this map with the OS map to find the names of the constituent woods of the NNR.
I support the right to roam (visit Right To Roam) but in the absence of a right to roam, the very least public bodies administrating NNRs should do is to tell the public where parts of NNRs are and which can be visited


High and Low Stile Woods from Johnny Wood

Johnny Wood
Lichens on a dry stone wall at the beginning of the wood
Probably Cladonia polydactyla, with bright red apothecia (fruiting bodies) on the edges of its cups; growing with/on moss

Rhizocarpon geographicum (green and black) in a mosaic with Lecidea lithophila (white thallus with red tinge and black apothecia) and an other lichen
Rhizocarpon geographicum and Lecidea lithophila are extremely common in Borrowdale; in Sussex (where I live) Rhizocarpon geographicum is rare, and restricted to church yards, Lecidea lithophila is non-existent in Sussex. North-West lichen enthusiasts are probably not that excited by seeing these lichens but as a Southerner seeing these was very interesting.

Distribution Maps (British Lichen Society) Lecidea lithophila & Rhizocarpon geographicum


Lecidea lithophila

A dead Sessile Oak

which reminded me of the Statue of Liberty

The trunk of this tree is still a viable substrate for epiphytes (because epiphytes take no nutrition from their substrate) including mosses, polypody ferns and lichens

Polypody fern

Physalacriaceae family fugus on tree
Physalacriaceae spp. are saprobic; i.e. they obtain nutrients by breaking down dead and decaying organic matter, serving a useful ecological function

This rocky bank as covered in mosses

A sphagnum moss probably Sphagnum palustre was at the top of this bank.
The demonstrated the difference between habitat in the south (where I live) & the north-west temperate rainforest. Sphagnum palustre in Sussex is found in bogs and wet flushes with a supply of water from springs or streams. In Borrowdale, it is also at the top of this rocky mound because it rains a lot ; in the south, it doesn’t rain enough for that.
Seathwaite, Borrowdale: This village is the wettest inhabited place in England, receiving around 3,500 mm (138 inches) annually. Visit Cumbria Weather in the Lakes
The average annual precipitation in Sussex is around 914mm (36 inches) Climate Data Sussex

Scleroderma citrinum Common Earthball

Mossy boulders

In Johnny Wood, Wilson’s Filmy-fern can be found. I have never seen it. So I explored likely filmy-fern outcrops to try and find it.
Filmy Ferns are characteristic of temperate rain forest

Wilson’s Filmy Fern has a similar distribution to Tunbridge Filmy Fern

Following my success in finding Tunbridge Filmy Fern in the High Weald (an outlier population in the of Sussex where the These unique geological features of the High Weald produce create a localized, hypo-oceanic microclimate that supports plant species typically of western Atlantic woodland), I explored rock outcrops like those ones I have seen Tunbridge Filmy Fern on for Wilson Filmy Fern, like this one:

But when I climbed up to this rocky outcrop below, I “only” found common bryophytes e.g. White Earwort & Tamarisk Moss. But many “common” bryophytes are beautiful. I saw no Wilson’s Filmy Fern in any of the rock outcrops I explored.
White Earwort

Common Tamarisk-Moss

But as I have said before, I am never tire of seeing common beautiful things.
Here is some Tunbridge Filmy Fern I saw in Sussex to give you an idea of what Filmy Ferns look like!

The leaves of Wood-Sorrel, an ancient woodland indicator species, growing though Sphagnum palustre

Concrete water reservoir. Ancient temperate rainforest woods in the UK are not untouched by human intervention. Most have always been part of living, changing landscapes formed by human-nature interaction.

Waling along the River Derwent from Johnny Wood to the Bowder Stone

Walking along the Derwent I saw many birds, including this gorgeous juvenile Chaffinch

I also saw two White-throated Dippers dipping the Derwent for food. Both of them were quicky gone so I was unable to get a photo of them
Here is a Dipper I saw in the River North Esk south of Edinburgh in 2023

It is always a thrill to see Dippers
Witch’s Broom – Taphrina betulina (a fungal gall that effects the tree’s growth)

Herdwicks!

Not all of Borrowdale is Atlantic Oakwood; there is also much secondary woodland. Looking up from the valley, I could see Secondary Beech plantation

and Pine plantations

As Guy Shrubsole says: the Atlantic Oakwoods of Borrowdale remain fragmented and under pressure National Trust Borrowdale NNR . Which makes it all the more important that the National Trust and Nature England point out to the public which fragments are Atlantic Woodland (Temperate Rain Forest)
Bowder Stone
In the valley of the river Derwent, in Borrowdale, just north of Rosthwaite in a woodland clearing on the opposite side of the road from the river, stands a huge glacial boulder shaped like a human head that is one of several Cumbrian curiosities and, which has locally been called The Bowder Stone or Balder’s Stone, after the son of the Norse god, Odin (Woden). This ice-borne rock was carried down the valley by a glacier many thousands of years ago and deposited, having been trapped and then dislodged between the two side-slopes of the river valley. The Journal Of Antiquities The Bowder Stone, Rosthwaite, Cumbria

- The boulder would have nestled deeply in the forests that covered the Lake District after the last ice age – the original ‘wildwood’ that predated human habitation in the Lakes. It stood unmoved through the coming of the people who built the Iron Age hillfort on Castle Crag, the Norse who created the many clearings or ‘thwaites’ along the valley for grazing, and the traditional woodland industries which coppiced and harvested the timber for firewood, building materials and leather tanning.
- Two hundred years ago, the Bowder Stone was one of the most prominent landmarks in the valley – a huge boulder that awed visitors with its sheer size and mass that stood out against the sky as the road wound towards it .Balanced improbably on one edge, it was popular with Georgian tourists for the ‘pleasurable terror’; they enjoyed wild, romantic scenery and the frisson of experiencing danger from a safe distance. National Trust History on the Borrowdale Valley
Photo of Bowder Stone in nineteenth century from the Borrowdale Story – Geology

The area around the Bowder Stone is now designated by Nature England and the National Trust ancient (oakwood) rainforest; but the immediate area around the stone has clearly not been continuously wooded
Dunnock on dry stone wall.

A Sessile Oak with “white” bark from a distance

The white bark is probably lichens of the Mesic bark community (the
Pertusarietum). I am very used to this community, as it is common in the south, especially in parkland trees and trees at the edge of woods. I thought it unusual to see this in the Lake District but I did some research and found that whist it is largely southern community in the UK, …. [there is] a very important stronghold in the Lake District Plantlife: Lichens and Bryophytes of Atlantic Woodland in the Lake District
More Rhizocarpon geographicum and Lecidea lithophila on a rock. Whilst I had never come across Lecidea lithophila until Monday, by Thursday I could recognize it at 50m away

Lots of Silver Birch, Beech and Yew above the Bowder Stone

The National Trust says of Borrowdale Rainforest NNR: The Borrowdale Oakwoods are one of England’s largest remaining pieces of temperate rainforest that once spread from the north of Scotland down the west coast of England, Wales and Ireland and are part of a long standing cultural landscape

And these Silver Birch, Yew and Beech woodland are within the NNR that is described as Oakwood. But Oakwood is not all Oak
Upland oakwoods are characterised by a predominance of oak (most commonly sessile, but locally pedunculate) and birch in the canopy, with varying amounts of holly, rowan and hazel as the main understorey species. The range of plants found in the ground layer varies according to the underlying soil type and degree of grazing from bluebell-bramble-fern communities through grass and bracken dominated ones to heathy moss-dominated areas. Many oakwoods also contain areas of more alkaline soils, often along streams or towards the base of slopes where much richer communities occur. Elsewhere small alder stands may occur or peaty hollows covered by bog mosses Sphagnum spp. These elements are an important part of the upland oakwood system. The ferns, mosses and liverworts found in the most oceanic of these woods are particularly rich; many also hold very diverse lichen communities. Buglife Upland Oakwood
Cummacatta Wood
Cummacatta Wood is, to me, of very high biological interest (with sparse ancient trees and bog), is not in the designated NNR area, although it is probably of more biological interest than some of the woodland around the Bowder Sone which is in the Borrowdale Rainforest NNR. The danger of having an NRR that is described as a rainforest NRR is that biologically important areas that are not rainforest are not offered the protection that being part of a National Nature Reserve

Cummacatta Wood has a physical sign saying it is a National Trust property; however there is no information about it online from the National Trust or any other organisation except for one mention of the wood in a hiking apps.
It is not in the Borrowdale Rainforest NNR but it is in the geographical area of the Lodore-Tri0ttdale Woods SSSI. Although it is not mentioned in its SSSI specification by name; the sentence The site includes a number of interesting non-wooded habitats. Species-rich flushes may include Cummcatta Wood; although it is partially wooded!
The Borrowdale Rainforest NNR according to Nature England contains a number of SSSIs
Armboth Fells SSSI; Castlehead Wood SSSI; Great Wood SSSI; Hollows Farm Section SSSI; Johnny Wood SSSI; Lodore – Troutdale Woods SSSI; River Derwent and Tributaries SSSI; Rosthwaite Fell SSSI; Seatoller Wood, Sourmilk Gill & Seathwaite Graphite Mine SSSI; Stonethwaite Woods SSSI and The Ings SSSI. The relationship between these individual SSSIs and the legal entity Borrowdale Rainforest NNR is very unclear beyond Natural England says the Borrowdale Rainforest NNR is Legally underpinned by these SSSI
Despite the deafening silence of the internet on Cummacatta Wood of its biological nature, I found it charmingly beautiful and full of biological interest. I have walked through Johnny Wood, the woods around the Bowder Stone and Cummacatta Wood just once and I wasn’t long in any of these areas; so my views on their interest is very impressionistic. I almost certainly missed many interesting species of lichens, bryophytes and vascular plants!
Cummaccatta is sparsely wooded with Sessile Oak, Silver Birch, Hazel, Yew, Juniper and Ash.
Here the beautiful and common (in North West Atlantic Woodland) liverwort Frullania tamarisci

A twisted Sessile Oak

Yew

Hawthorns; as in Sussex, often have abundant (bit different) lichen. Sussex Hawthorns are dominated by Ranalina spp. lichens with few or no Usnea spp. Upland north-west Hawthorn often have more Usnea. On these hawthorns Usnea floridana is relatively common; it is very rare on South East hawthorns


Lichens on these two hawthorns
Hypogymnia physodes

Cladonia polydactyla

A liverwort not a lichen: Frullania tamarisci

Falvoparmelia caperata

Beard lichen: probably Usnea subfloridana

Usnea subfloridana

Platismatia glauca

Two stunted Yews

Juniper

Bog Pond Weed

Bog Asphodel

Red: Sphagnum capillifolium subsp. rubellum

Common Heather

The way in and out of Cummacatta Wood is on the B2859, the Keswick to Seatoller road, along which the Stagecoach 78 bus runs
On the open-top bus back to Keswick






















































































































